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Chef Guy Reuge bashfully claims that he acclimated to lose his atmosphere in the kitchen, but it’s adamantine to believe.



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Reuge, 66, the bespectacled controlling chef of the Lessing’s Hospitality Accumulation and one of Continued Island’s best acclaimed cooks, has a aboriginal French emphasis and a boyish, attenuate frame. Despite a long, absorbing and actual French resume, he’s abundantly humble. The man already adapted for Valéry Giscard d’Estaing (before he was admiral of France, but still) and yet Reuge doesn’t apperception occasionally abrasion dishes.

He’s additionally not aloft an alternate cruise to Dunkin’ Donuts for a custard-filled confection, admitting he protests: “I don’t corruption them, because it’s not acceptable for me.”

That he has anytime been affronted with anyone seems impossible. But he’s alone human, and one day, aback in the ’70s while he was accomplishment a career as a Manhattan chef, he says he aboveboard confronted a accusatory customer.



“I booty a angle and a knife, and I go to the table and I say to the customer, ‘Excuse me sir, but is there article amiss with the apricot I adapted for you?’” he recalls. The chump declared the apricot was undercooked. Reuge chopped the angle in bisected and inspected its insides.

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“I said, ‘Sir. This apricot is perfect!’ and he said, ‘OK.’” He bursts out bedlam as he recounts the customer’s afraid reaction. “I don’t do that anymore.”

Nowadays, he splits his time amid Mirabelle Alehouse at the Three Village Inn in Stony Brook and the Sandbar in Cold Spring Harbor.

Reuge was built-in in Saint Lô, France, but grew up in Orléans (the old one). From a adolescent age, he was absorbed by the American way of life, he says. In 1973, a 21-year-old Reuge came to New York, area a alive alloy of ability and cuisine was accident all over Manhattan.

He adapted his way about the city, application adapted functions in several restaurants. He assisted with the aperture of a bizarre alehouse alleged La Tulipe, on West 13th Street, which enjoyed abundant success from 1979 until its cease in 1991. He additionally got his easily bedraggled in the kitchens of Le Plaisir and the iconic Alehouse on the Green in Central Park. He was in it now, all the while fantasizing about aperture his own “resto.”

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In 1983 he did aloof that, and for 25 years, Restaurant Mirabelle in St. James was the acknowledged apotheosis of Reuge’s comestible mastery. In 2008, the Lessing’s accumulation approached Reuge and asked him to absorb businesses and move his restaurant a few afar arctic to celebrated Stony Brook.

“Years ago, we were attractive to accomplish a change at the Three Village Inn — a array of revolution. Or, in this case, a French revolution,” says Mark Lessing, controlling carnality admiral of restaurants at Lessing’s. “Guy Reuge’s talent, affection and comestible full-blooded seemed the absolute fit. Today, this award-winning controlling chef is still the hardest-working guy in the kitchen, bar none.”

The card at Mirabelle, which is seasonally adapted by Reuge, boasts the freshest capacity he can antecedent locally. This winter, guests can apprehend earthy, high-end French dishes like choucroute garnie (cabbage with sausages and added absolute meats) and cassoulet with avoid bonbon (a affluent goulash with broiled beans). Added items of note, Reuge says, are the alehouse burger (an 8-ounce custom alloy of meat with Reuge’s bacon-onion marmalade and cheddar cheese) and oysters from Fishers Island, which Reuge contests are amid the best in the U.S.

Reuge insists on consistently reinventing his menu, and himself. Putting in 60 to 70 hours a week, it’s accessible to accept why addition in his position ability alpha eyeing retirement, admitting he has no interest.

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“As continued as you are healthy, I don’t see why you would retire,” he says. “I don’t get it.”

Asked if he anytime opts to blemish himself and baker an busy meal for one, he says: Nope, never.

“The amusement of affable is for added people,” he artlessly says. “It’s like bubbler wine. You know, I adulation wine, I accord to a wine accumulation area we accommodated every ages and we aftertaste wine and we allocution about it. Wine is sharing. Food is the same.”

Mirabelle Alehouse is amid at 150 Main St., Stony Brook. It can be accomplished at 631-751-0555 or lessings.com

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Last Updated: January 3rd, 2019 by admin