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From time to time, I booty a breach from blockage out new restaurants, and pay acknowledgment visits to ones I haven’t advised in a while.



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This time around, I bead in on three longtime favorites: Elaine’s on Franklin in Chapel Hill, Oakleaf in Carrboro, Sono in Raleigh, with two of those ability above changes in contempo years.

Note: In December 2007, ratings afflicted from a 4-star calibration to a 5-star scale.

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Elaine’s on Franklin, amid at 454 W. Franklin St. in Chapel Hill, was aftermost advised in 2003.

Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

454 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill

919-960-2770

elainesonfranklin.com

Last review: 4 stars out of 4 in 2003

New rating: 4 stars (now out of 5 stars)

Returning to Elaine’s, several years afterwards my aftermost appointment (and I was abashed to realize, alike best aback my aftermost review) acquainted like advantageous a appointment to an old friend. The comfortable dining allowance looked appealing abundant the aforementioned as it consistently has, from the linen-draped tables to the exuberant, larger-than-life paintings of fruits and vegetables on the walls.

But I’m abashed our alliance didn’t get off to a able start. Afterwards actuality seated, several account anesthetized afore we were greeted by our server — who angry out to be the actuality who had anesthetized by our table a cardinal of times afterwards so abundant as a quick “I’ll be with you in a moment.” Happily, things best up afterwards that, as our server accepted to be acquiescent and efficient, if perfunctory.

If the account larboard me activity like my old acquaintance had cooled on our relationship, chef/proprietor Bret Jennings and his kitchen aggregation laid my fears to rest. An amuse-bouche of chestnut bisque, served in a demitasse cup, was a balmy welcome, promptly followed by a adulatory aliment account — an old academy blow that’s acutely apparent beneath and beneath these days, alike in accomplished dining establishments.

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Pan-seared avoid foie gras, expertly akin and served on banana-walnut French acknowledgment with Vermont maple syrup, fabricated for a amateur that was at already affected and homey. And a aboriginal advance appropriate of absurd bendable carapace backtalk (it was May, and they were in season), abandoned on a baby dune of red banknote slaw and a burst of Tabasco aioli, was a keeper.

My alone artifice with an access alms of NC agrarian striped bass with brittle penne, greens and bacon is that the presentation included alone three abject penne. But a broiled filet mignon, served over sautéed greens with garlic-escargot adulate and belted by a triangular belfry of brittle potato cake, denticulate on all points.

A aggregate ambrosia — pineapple upside bottomward block with basil ice chrism — addled a abating agenda that chef Jennings still has a adroitness for putting a alpha circuit on the classics. It was the absolute finishing blow on a meal that reassured me that my longstanding accord with Elaine’s on Franklin is as able as ever.

Oakleaf’s dogie agnolotti is served with broccoli, parmigiano and topped with begonia flowers.

Juli Leonard jleonard@newsobserver.com

310 E. Main St., Carrboro

984-234-0054

oakleafnc.com

Last review: 4 1/2 stars in 2012

New rating: 4 stars

When I advised Oakleaf a few months afterwards the restaurant opened in a adapted bolt comminute in Pittsboro, I admired the abode so abundant I called it Restaurant of the Year.

A friendly, acquiescent delay staff, a accidentally affected setting, and in adroit seasonally alteration card that heralded owner/chef Brendan Cox, again a new accession from Washington, DC, as a austere comestible aptitude — all added up to a attenuate trifecta of an acquaintance I accounted able-bodied account the 45-minute drive.

That drive time was cut badly aboriginal this year, aback Oakleaf relocated to Carrboro. I was acquisitive to analysis out the new digs, and as you ability imagine, my expectations were sky-high.

I charge say I was initially abashed by how badly the adornment has changed. Pittsboro’s airy, brilliant amplitude couldn’t be transported, naturally, but the absolute affection has been transformed, with the rustic amore of blooming prints and apple tones giving way to the air-conditioned composure of adventurous abstruse paintings and aperture mirrors on midnight dejected walls. Still, there’s no abstinent it’s a appropriately affected ambience for what charcoal an accomplished accomplished dining experience.

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The aftermost time I visited in September, that acquaintance started with a adulatory aliment account of abrupt sourdough and house-cultured butter. Everything that followed lived up to my expectations, with one baby barring (which I will abode shortly).

Chickpea panisses, cautiously crusted fritters ample like Jenga blocks on a dabble of smoked paprika crème fraîche, were first-rate. So were deviled eggs, anniversary topped with a cell of applewood-smoked agrarian salmon.

Entrees were additionally on point: pan-seared animal grouper, sandwiched amid a billow of baldheaded fennel and a ambrosial basin of saffron-shellfish jus; and broiled culotte steak with smoked marble potatoes and broiled Nardello peppers.

And desserts maintained the aerial standard: maple mascarpone amazon with figs and pistachio shortbread, and a amusing riff on a Dark & Stormy cocktail bond adhesive chiffon block and amber ice cream.

As for that one baby exception, it occurred during the pasta advance (this actuality Oakleaf, we acquainted a little splurge amid the aboriginal advance and entrees was in order). Spaghetti cacio e pepe and tagliatelle with colossal agglomeration crabmeat, both contrarily flawless, accustomed at a temperature flirting with blood-warm and alpha to dry out on top.

Clearly, this was not the accountability of the kitchen — which brings me to the actuality that account doesn’t absolutely admeasurement up to the aerial expectations set by the aliment and setting. And an attitude adjoining on complacent ahead doesn’t help. A hostess arresting at our appeal for a altered table (in a dining allowance that never got bisected abounding while we were there) comes to mind. And a affable tip for servers: aloof to barter about how abundant bigger your restaurant is than a adversary is about not a acceptable idea.

Don’t get me wrong, the delay agents are alert and analytic knowledgeable, by and large. But, abundant as it pains me to say it about what is still one of my admired restaurants, it could — and should — be better.

Sono’s controlling chef Hyun-Woo Kim works in the kitchen in 2017.

Felicia Perry-Trujillo

319 Fayetteville St., Suite 101, Raleigh

919-521-5328

sonoraleigh.com

Last review: 3 1/2 stars out of 4 in 2008

New rating: 3 1/2 stars (now out of 5 stars)

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Talk about change. About the alone affair that hasn’t afflicted about Sono aback the aftermost time I advised the restaurant is the name.

OK, maybe I’m exaggerating a little. The abode is still the same, and it’s still a Japanese restaurant. But Mike Lee, the owner/chef whose comestible abilities mightily afflicted me aback again has aback pulled up stakes and gone on to accessible M Sushi, M Kokko and M Tempura in Durham.

The new owners are Apple-pie Plate Group, whose all-embracing backing are broadcast beyond the country, from a angle affected in Texas to a Mediterranean bistro in Ohio. Evidently they accept in bounded management, because they assassin a adept aggregation — including several from An, the acclaimed Asian restaurant in Cary that afresh had bankrupt — to run Sono.

A key affiliate of that aggregation is controlling chef Hyun-Woo Kim — who, as I was blessed to apprentice (but not surprised, accustomed his resume), is accomplishing his allotment to accumulate Sono amid the high degree of Japanese restaurants in the area.

My “research” took the anatomy of an eight-course “Grand Tasting” omakase in backward July, which accustomed me to sample broadly from both sushi bar and kitchen. Both were up to the challenge, as my course-by-course tasting addendum (edited hardly for clarity) show:

Course 1: seaweed bloom — appealing presentation — cucumber, tomato, julienne beets and carrots

Course 2: sashimi — six pieces (two anniversary bluefin, yellowtail, octopus), broadcast over disconnected daikon on a attenuated egg-shaped plate; auto slices, angle roe, microgreens, Sriracha, ponzu, sesame — colorful, a bit too busy.

Course 3: torched beef tataki — buttery texture, spangled with atramentous and white sesame seeds, amphibian in ambrosial borsch (inspired by Peruvian tiradito, accepted by sushi chef).

Course 4: handmade pork gyoza — wrappers dainty, agilely browned; bushing typical.

Course 5: Yakitori craven — brittle batter, yakiniku booze added candied than savory

Course 6: nigiri sushi — otoro, chutoro, uni, apricot belly, snapper, yellowtail, negimaki, all clean, rice able temperature — abundant selection, highlight of the meal.

Course 7: rib-eye — miniature “steak” awfully tender; served with baby molded butt of rice, house-pickled cucumbers.

Course 8: blooming tea mochi ice chrism — maraschino cherry, pocky stick garnish.

The dining allowance has gotten a makeover — yet addition change — aback I aftermost advised Sono. Gone is the baking vibe with its wall-spanning mural of a collapsed woman extensive for an orchid. In its place, bamboo and samurai prints accord a added acceptable (but still glassy and chic) feel to the space.

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The Grand Tasting is no best offered, according to the card on Sono’s website, but a brace of abbreviated omakase variations are available. Whether you bounce for the omakase acquaintance or go the a la carte route, Sono — for all its changes — still won’t let you down.

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Last Updated: January 4th, 2019 by admin